D O C . 4 5 5 T R A V E L D I A R Y 4 5 7
miniaturized mummies, poisoned arrows. Magnificent garden in front of the muse-
um. Statistics on racial mix. Blacks gradually disappearing through mixing because
of mulattoes lacking power of resistance. Indians relatively less numerous. At
noon, at Prof. Castro’s. Real ape, but interesting company: Russian archaeologist,
smart journalist, female writer, pretty, intelligent, and somewhat arrogant. In the af-
ternoon, Academy of Sciences. Those fellows are powerful
speakers.[93]
When
they laud someone they laud—eloquence. I believe such monkey business and
pointlessness really does have something to do with the climate. But people don’t
think so.
8) Morning visit to the institute of biology. Pathological anatomy. Disease-trans-
mitting insects. Trypanosoma through the microscope. In the afternoon, lecture at
the School of Engineering. Great heat in overcrowded auditorium. In the evening,
invitation to the German club “Germania.” Relaxed
supper.[94]
9) Observatory with interesting instruments for earthquakes. Lunch at Silvamel-
lo’s. Very enjoyable, with Brazilian food. It was very comfortable in that house.
Went by foot to visit two brothers, physiologists with interesting work on respira-
tion. Dinner at Kohn’s. Common but well-meaning people. Major reception given
by the Jews at 9 o’clock in the evening at the Jockey Club. Long speeches with
much enthusiasm and inordinate flattery, but all earnestly meant. Praise be to God
that it’s over. Two days left to complete, which by appearances are pleasant ones.
But irresistible yearning for peace from so many strangers. Evening still with Rob-
ert (on his way home from
Santos).[95]
10. Glorious excursion with Kohn’s family and commission by car to various
vista points. Sunset with cog railway up Corcovado. In the evening, reception held
by the Zionist central office in a full hall in enormous
heat.[96]
Ventilation no longer
perceptible. Speeches shorter than usual.
11. Visit to insane asylum, whose director is a mulatto and an especially excep-
tional person. Brazilian lunch at his place with much pepper and German wife.
Then visit to the ministers, who, thank heavens, were mostly absent. Then photo-
graph taking. Great film presentation of Indian life and their model cultivation by
General Rondon, a humanist and leader of the first order. Finally, dinner in the ho-
tel, hosted by the German
envoy.[97]
Then still many letters and signatures. Free, at
last, but more dead than alive.
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