4 5 0 D O C . 4 5 5 T R A V E L D I A R Y
I play quartets, Mozart and Schubert, every day with a Mr. Holländer, Mrs.
Ohnesorg, and the first violinist of the ship’s band in my berth. One sweats pitifully
doing so, but is in bliss.
Idea about explanation for the coherence of radiation emitted in different
directions.[23]
(18 March)
22.
Yesterday Rio, Rabbi and someone else as well as some engineers and medical
doctors picked me up at the
ship.[24]
Earlier ½ past 5–7 o’clock entry into harbor.
Sky overcast and light rain, but the bizarre giant rocks still majestically impres-
sive.—My company, very casual and pleasant. Botanical garden and the plant
world in general surpasses the dreams of 1001
Nights.[25]
Everything lives and
thrives, so to speak, under one’s very eyes. The mix of peoples in the streets is
priceless. Portuguese–Indian–Negro, with all transitional shades, instinctive plant-
like, subdued by heat. Wonderful experience. An indescribable abundance of im-
pressions in few hours.
27.
24. Montevideo at noon. Journalists and other Jews of various sorts, among oth-
ers Nierenstein, secretary of the university. He is a resigned, good person, but the
others are all more or less
sordid.[26]
Ship was supposed to arrive in Buenos Aires at 17 o’clock, but ran aground
about 11 o’clock, so arrival only ½ past 2 o’clock at
night.[27]
Am half-dead from
the unsavory rabble. Mrs. Jerusalem and all the stewards are standing with me.
7 o’clock in the morning, the dance begins again on board ship. ½ past 8 o’clock
we go ashore. Nierenstein helps. Drove to
Wassermanns.[28]
Peace at last; com-
pletely worn out. Kind and cheerful housewife. Assumes all the chicanery of a
“volunteer secretary” together with Mrs. Jerusalem. Afternoon, ladies’ circle (“sol-
diers”) there, as well as German envoy.
[29]
In the evening, visit to rector and
dean.[30]
Unassuming and friendly people
without pretentiousness, but also without any sense of a mission. Sober, but they
and other genuine republicans in some ways reminiscent of the Swiss.
City comfortable and boring. People delicate, deer-eyed, graceful, but clichéd.
Luxury, superficiality.
On 2¢5²6th, a lot of journalists and photographers. Around 12 o’clock, drive into
town and to
market.[31]
New York attenuated by the South. In afternoon, dean from
La Plata, elegant phony little man with analogous little
wife[32]
and deputation of
Jews. The latter want to “celebrate” me in a mass gathering. But as I’m fed
up[33]
with New York, I resolutely
decline.[34]
Only meeting with deputations remains.
Evening with family. Mrs. Jerusalem performs with a great deal of wit and intellect,
but with forced hilarity.
[p. 12]
[p. 13]
[p. 14]
[p. 15]