3 1 4 D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y D E C E M B E R 1 9 2 2 with substantial hand-pressing. Banquet by Prof. Sata in great hall. Military trum- pet music, immense meal. Speeches with much pathos, also by me.[136] (Japanese scaled-down America.) From ½ past 5–7 and 8 until ½ past 9, talks.[137] The whole thing not so terribly stressful because everyone considerate and modest. Upon return home, great scene by left-at-home wife. 10th. ½ past 10–12 and 1–3, talk in Kyoto. Very cold in splendid hall.[138] Then visit of imperial garden and coronation palace.[139] The inner palace courtyard is among the finest architecture I have ever seen.[140] Completely surrounded by buildings. Audience room and coronation hall open out on sand-covered courtyard. Emperor’s demeanor is that of a god for him very uncomfortable. Inside the hall, where the coronation thrones are visible from the courtyard, portraits of about 40— Chinese—statesmen in acknowledgment of the cultural influence Japan has received from China.[141] This veneration of foreign teachers still lives on today among the Japanese. Moving recognition among many Japanese who had studied in Germany for their German teachers. There is supposedly even a temple in mem- ory of the bacteriologist Koch.[142] Ernest respect without a trace of cynicism or even skepticism is characteristic of Japanese. Pure souls as nowhere else among people. One has to love and admire this country. 12th. Morning, nap. 2 o’clock, old Tokugawa palace with beautiful landscape paintings (clouds, trees, birds, funny tiger, painted on gold background). Painting interrupted by beams makes walls seem to vanish and the interior to extend into fabulously colorful outdoors.[143] With Ishiwara, calculation on energy tensor of the electromagnetic field in isotropic ponderable substances for joint article in Jap- anese academy’s reports.[144] 13th. Trip to Kobe. Lunch with Okamot Yamamoto and the important young social politician in fishing village near Kobe (tourist sight).[145] Talk with Ishiwara from ½ past 5 until 8 o’clock, dinner at the consul’s, Trautmann. Then reception at the German Club.[146] Trip home alone with wife on local train (arrival Kyoto, 1 o’clock in the morning). 14th. Festive noon meal with professors from the university. Large assembly of students. Address by university president and representative of the student associ- ation in impeccable German (very cordial).[147] Then talk by me about the coming into being of the theory of relativity (by request).[148] Visit in the phys. institute. (Highly interesting, particularly Kimura’s investigations on broadening of spectral lines.)[149] In the evening, Nagaoka arrives from Tokyo with a suitcase full of magnificent presents from the University of Tokyo.[150] 15th. Departure from Nagaoka. Visit to splendid Buddhist temple, memorial mass for the dead. Friendly welcome by monks. Viewing of the big bell striker hor- [p. 24v] [p. 25] [p. 25v]
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