D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y D E C E M B E R 1 9 2 2 3 1 5 izontal and outside. Blossoming cherry tree in front of the temple.[151] Picture tak- ing at the univ. phys. institute with small reception and colloquium. Dusk, visit of a Shintoist temple standing on high stilts against the side of a mountain. Then visit of festively lighted street with luxury shops and much goings-on. Inexpressibly cheerful scene, like Oktoberfest. Swarm of lanterns and little flags. Street surface extremely dirty, everything else sparkling clean and brightly colored.[152] 16th. Morning Early visit to the Buddhist temple at the foot of the mountain hill next to the hotel. Wonderful architecture, subtrop. lush vegetation.[153] Morn[ing], western temple with magnificent paintings. Also harmonious treatment of human figures in the landscape, reminiscent of Ital. Renaissance. Never portraits or group compositions.[154] Afternoon, Lake Biwa with wonderfully situated and architect[urally] very perfect old rockside temple.[155] Evening many wrote a number of letters. 1[8?]th 17th. Visit with wife to silk store. Splendid landscape & animal embroidery.[156] Afternoon, climbed hill alone at sunset. Japanese wood (maple) and light effects unrivaled. In the evening, traveled to Nara. With Gaki on foot to hotel. Very tasteful, semi-Japanese style and excellent.[157] 18th. Tour around the temple territory. Tame deer milling about and snuffling about one all over the countryside. Temple architecturally magnificent. Temple with large Buddha figure especially majestic (more than 1,000 years old) the fig- ure quite raw.[158] Much superstition. Lanterns, memorial stones. Bits of paper on trees and by temples. In afternoon, state museum of old sculptures.[159] Some charmingly pretty things from the period 700–1200. Profound impression of Japa- nese art of caricature. 20 19th. With Inagaki climbed up bald hill (of young grass) that sets a Japanese in raptures as it embodies the delights of spring.[160] Evening Afternoon, letters & postcards, also calculation for joint paper with Ishiwara. From 6 o’clock in ev. until 6 o’clock in the morning, voyage to Miyajima.[161] 21 20th. Arrival in the dark of night. Bathed and into bed and slept until 10. From 11–12, enthralling walk along the coast to the temple with graceful pagoda built in the water (flood region).[162] Afternoon, with Gaki tour to the peak of the mountain lending the island its main form. Wonderful view over the Japanese Inland Sea.[163] Subtlest of colors. Along the way, countless small temples, dedi- cated to natural deities. Stone figures often delightful. The entire path of steps hewn into granite rocks (height around 700 m). Memorial to Japanese love of nature and all sorts of nice superstitions.— Noon telegram from Solf about denial of Harden’s assertion that I had to escape to safety in Japan. My answer: Affair too complicated for telegram letter to follow. I wrote the latter that evening, in accordance with the truth.[164] [p. 26] [p. 26v]
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