D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y F E B R U A R Y 1 9 2 3 3 2 1 ors, picturesque sailboats, yellow shoreline. Passage through saline lakes with barren, abandoned shores. Pale silvery tints, sky gloomy. Air quite cool. On the last hot day there was a masquerade party for the passengers, the day before, for the stewards. Japanese are virtuosos in this art. Recently made some nice acquaintances. Greek envoy, who is returning home from Japan, likeable Eng- lish widow, who contributes one pound for the Jer. University despite my protests, not to forget the Og[a]tas, a fine, nice Japanese merchant couple, with whom we chatted a lot on the ship. 1st February. Arrival in Port Said in the early hours. Greek envoy facilitated our landing and customs. Young Jew Goldstein Cantor appears at customs house with telegram from Jerusalem to assist us. City a real meeting place of foreigners with accompanying rabble. Visit to the Local Council (Palestinians). 6 o’clock in the evening, train to Qantarah at the Suez Canal.[198] Cantor and his companion Gold- stein accompany us there and by ferry across the canal, sojourn from 8–1 o’clock at night. 2nd. The departure to Palestine eased[199] by young Jewish conductor, who had seen me in Berlin at a meeting—not completely delighted with his fellow Jews, but a reliable, good person. Trip first through desert, then from about ½ past 7 through Palestine in quite dreary weather and frequent showers. Trip first through flat terrain with very sparse vegetation, interspersed with Arab villages and Jewish colonies, olive trees, cactuses, orange trees. At a junction not far from Jerusalem, welcomed by Ussishkin, Mossinson, and a few others of ours.[200] Traveling past colonies through wonderful rock valley up to Jerusalem.[201] There Ginzberg, happy reunion. In automobile with officer to gov- ernor’s palace, formerly a possession of Kaiser Wilhelm, very Wilhelminian. Acquaintance with Herbert Samuel. English formality. Fine, well-rounded educa- tion. Lofty view on life tempered by humor. Unassuming, fine son, cheerful, robust daughter-in-law with nice little son. Day rainy, yet hint of the magnificent view of city, hills, Dead Sea, and Transjordanian mountains.[202] 3. Walked with S. Samuel into the city (Sabbath!) on footpath past the city walls to picturesque old gate, walk into town in sunshine. Stern bald hilly landscape with white, often domed white stone houses and blue sky, stunningly beautiful, likewise the city crowded inside the square walls.[203] Further on in the city with Ginzberg. Through bazaar alleyways and other narrow streets to the large mosque on a splen- did wide raised square, where Solomon’s temple stood. Similar to Byzantine church, polygonal with central dome supported by pillars.[204] On the other side of the square, a basilica-like mosque of mediocre taste.[205] Then downwards to the temple wall (Wailing Wall), where dull ethnic brethren, with their faces turned to the wall, bend their bodies to and fro in a swaying motion.[206] Pitiful sight of [p. 33v] [p. 34] [p. 34v]