3 2 2 D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y F E B R U A R Y 1 9 2 3 people with a past but without a present. Then diagonally through the (very dirty) city teeming with the most disparate of religions and races, noisy, and orientally alien. Gorgeous walk over the accessible part of the city wall.[207] Then to Ginz- berg-Ruppin for midday meal with cheerful and serious conversations.[208] Stay owing to heavy rain. Visit to the Bukharian Jewish quarter and to dark synagogue where pious, grimy Jews await the end of the Sabbath in prayer.[209] Visit with Bergmann, the serious holy man from Prague who is setting up the library with too little space and money.[210] Atrocious rain with even messier streets. Homeward drive with Ginzberg and Bergmann by car. 4th. Drive with Ginzberg and S. Samuel’s capable and earthy cheerful daughter- in-law[211] over wonderful bald rolling hills and deep valleys in beaming sunshine and a fresh wind, downhill to Jericho and its ancient ruins. Splendid tropical oasis in desert region. Meal in Jericho Hotel. Then drive through wide Jordanian valley up to the Jordan bridge on horrendously marshy road, where we saw magnificent Bedouins.[212] Then in dazzling sunshine homeward again. At home, in piercing sunshine, resplendent view of Dead Sea and Transjordanian hills from S. Diez’s official residence, where we drank tea.[213] Then in the darkening room, interesting conversation about religion and nationality with S. Diez. Evening, pleasant chat with S. Samuel & daughter-in-law. A day of unforgettable magnificence. Extraor- dinary enchantment of this severe, monumental landscape with its dark, elegant Arabian sons in their rags. There were many four-legged camels and donkeys to be seen. 5th. Tour of two Jewish colonial settlements west of Jerusalem, belonging to the city. The construction is carried out by Jewish workers’ cooperative in which the leaders are elected. The workers arrive without specialized knowledge or expertise and achieve excellence after a short time. The leaders are paid no more than the workers.[214] Visit to the Jewish library. Bergmann from Prague functions there ably but without a sense of humor.[215] A local mathematician (high-school teacher) shows me some of his really interesting investigations regarding continuous matri- ces and their operations.[216] In the evening music making with officer in S. Samu- el’s apartment, far too long, because starved of music.[217] 5th.[218] Visit of Jewish school of art. Splendid work under difficult conditions. Revival of antique Jewish ornaments.[219] Afternoon welcoming reception by Jew- ish schoolchildren forming a ceremonial passageway amongst them and then Jewish citizens in general in school hall. Speeches by Ussishkin and Yellin and pre- sentation of Hebrew address.[220] In the evening, invited for music at Bentwitch’s. Highly musical family. We played Mozart quintet.[221] 6th.[222] Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Via Dolorosa.[223] Afternoon talk (French) in university building in spe.[224] I have to start with greeting in Hebrew [p. 35] [p. 35v] [p. 36]