3 2 4 D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y F E B R U A R Y 1 9 2 3 college. Again speeches, remarkable ones by Czerniawski and Auerbach. Psalms and Eastern Jewish songs by candlelight.[242] 11th. Visit to the technical college workshops. Then Rothschild mill and oil fac- tory. The former almost finished. Incredibly sophisticated, almost entirely auto- mated installation.[243] Afternoon trip across Israel’s plains, Bethlehem Nazareth, to Lake of Tiberias. On the way, visit to the Nahalal colony, which is being con- structed according to Kauffmann’s design. Virtually all Russians. Village with pri- vate properties. Construction work cooperative.[244] To Nazareth, reachable after a scenic mountain drive, in pouring rain. Drive into the night up to the Migdal farm. For the last leg, the car had to be dragged through deep mud by mules up to the Migdal farmhouse. Cozy evening huddle with opulent meal. Farm is supposed to be divided up into garden plots. Our host is a strapping sedentary former gypsy. His family was not able to stay put there and is presently living in Germany.[245] Hilar- ious pilgrimages with a big lantern to the outhouse. Torrential rain during the night. 12th. Driving tour down to Lake Tiberias: palm and pine avenue. Landscape resembles Lake Geneva. Sun emerges. Lush region but malaria-infested. Pretty-as- a-picture young Jewess and interesting educated worker in the farmhouse. After lunch via picturesque Tiberias to the Communist settlement Degania at the outlet of the Jordan from Lake Tiberias, first passing by Magdala, Mary’s home town where Arab archaeologists sold land at horrendous prices.[246] Colonists extremely likable, mostly Russians. Grimy but of earnest will and with tenacity and love in pursuit of their ideal, carrying on the fight against malaria, hunger, and debt. This communism will not last forever but will raise people of integrity. After detailed conversation and viewing, drive up to Nazareth in good weather. Along the way, magnificent view on the lake, rocky hills, and finally the picturesque little town of Nazareth. In the evening at home in a German inn.[247] Pouring rain anew. 13th. Drive from terraced, very scenic Nazareth across the Israeli plain, Nablus, to Jerusalem. Quite hot at departure, then chilling cold with pelting rain. En route, road blocked by a truck sunk in the mud. People and car take separate detours over ditch and field. Cars get heavily battered about in this country. In the evening, talk in German in Jerusalem in a packed hall with inevitable speeches and presentation of diploma by Pal Jewish medical doctors, the speaker scared stiff and tongue- tied.[248] Thank heavens that there are some with less self-confidence among us Jews. I am absolutely wanted in Jerusalem and am being assailed on all fronts in this regard. My heart says yes but my reason says no. My wife Else seriously feverish on the night before our voyage.[249] 14th. 6 ¾ departure with Hadassa to railway station. ½ past 7 departure after farewells by the tracks. Hadassa travels with us until Lod.[250] Changing of trains. [p. 37v] [p. 38] [p. 38v]
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