D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y M A R C H 1 9 2 3 3 2 5 Wife feeling worse up to Qantarah, where she completely collapses. Kind Arab conductor. In Qantarah acquaintance with a few officials who give my wife eggs and a place to lie down. Layover ½ past 5–10 o’clock. Onward travels very ardu- ous. Arrival in Port Said. Safely housed in Mr. Muschli’s beautiful house.[251] All will be well. 15th. Walk to Lesseps monument.[252] Cubist colorful picture of rectangular bath house and larger houses along the beach. Radiant sunshine. Sense of liberation. Wife better, is being devotedly cared for by Mrs. Muschli.[253] Visit with governor (broad-faced Orientals) and a few consuls. 16th. Morning departure on “Ormuz” (Oriental line).[254] Bad food. Almost exclusively English colonialists on board, acquaintance with Jewish businessman Haye from Australia and a few Americans. 17th, 18th, 19th. Indigestion from bad food. High seas and rain. 19th in the morning, Stromboli nicely in view. Afternoon 6 o’clock, Naples. Vesuvius in gray clouds, overcast sky. So cold and unpleasant that one is happy to be able to stay on the ship. Englishman from Australia turns out to be from Mecklenburg. News of railway strike in France and ever more reprisals along the Ruhr how will things go on?[255] In Toulon people friendly, in Marseille, dangerous to speak German. Direc- tor of freight depot refuses to dispatch our luggage to Berlin, or even to Zurich.[256] 22nd–28th. Stop in Barcelona. Very tiring, but dear people. (Terradas, Cam- palans, Lana, Tirpitz’s daughter.) Folk songs, dances. Refectory.[257] How nice it was![258] 1st March. Arrival in Madrid. Departure from Barcelona, cordial farewells. Ter- radas, German consul with Tirpitz’s daughter, etc.[259] 3rd March. First lecture at university.[260] 4th March. Drive with Kocherthalers. Reply to Cabreras. Wrote academy speech. Afternoon academy session chaired by king. Wonderful speech by the acad. president.[261] Then tea at arist. lady socialite’s.[262] Evening at home but very catholic. 5th. Morning. Mathematical society honorary membership. Discussion about general relativity. Meal at Kuno’s. Visit with Kuchal. Wonderful old thinker. Seri- ously ill. Talk. Evening dinner invitation by Mr. Vogel.[263] Kind-hearted, humor- ous pessimist. 6th. Excursion to Toledo concealed through many lies. One of the finest days of my life. Beaming skies. Toledo like a fairytale. An enthusiastic old man, who had supposedly written something of import about Gra El Greco, guides us. Streets and market place, views onto the city, the Tagus with stone bridges, stone-covered hills, charming level cathedral, synagogue, sunset on the homeward trip with [p. 39] [p. 39v] [p. 40] [p. 40v]
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