3 0 6 D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y N O V E M B E R 1 9 2 2 decisively that they are so unable to defend themselves against the formidable blessing of children. At 11 o’clock the Kitano Maru left through the shining green sea between green island mountains that were delightful in shape and color but bald, i.e., without tree growth. The current lush flora on Hong Kong is supposed to have all been planted by the English. They have an admirable understanding of governance. The policing is done by foreign-born black Indians of awe-inspiring stature, Chinese are never used. For the latter the English have built a proper uni- versity in order to captivate those Chinese who have prospered.[40] Who can match that? Poor Continental Europeans, you don’t understand how to take the bite out of nationalistic opposition through tolerance. 11th. At night, wonderful marine phosphorescence. The crests of the sea’s waves glowed bluish as far as one could see. 14th. On the 13th about 10 o’clock in the morning, arrival in Shanghai. Travel along flat, picturesque, yellowish-green illuminated shores upriver.[41] Departure of the two Swiss officers, the one from Bern who so kindly mended my little pipe, as well as the chauvinistic but otherwise well-meaning young German former offi- cer. In Shanghai, welcomed on the ship by Inagaki and spouse, our dear escorts Shanghai-Kobe[42] , and by the German consul,[43] Mr. and Mrs. Pfister.[44] First, journalists, a respectable group of Japanese and American ones who asked their usual questions. Then, with Inagakis and two Chinese (a journalist and secretary of Christian Chinese federation), led into a Chinese restaurant.[45] During the meal we observed through the window a noisy, colorful Chinese funeral—a somewhat for our taste—barbaric, almost comical affair. The food, extremely refined, inter- minable. One constantly fishes with sticks from common little bowls set out on the table in great numbers. My innards reacted quite temperamentally so it was high time when I landed (literally speaking) around 5 o’clock in the haven of the friendly Pfister couple. After eating, walk through the Chinese quarter in splendid weather. Streets becoming ever narrower, teeming with pedestrians, rickshaws, caked with dirt of every kind, in the air a stench of never-ending, ever-changing variety. Impression of grim fight for survival by the meek and mostly apathetic-looking, mostly neglected people. Beyond the street, loud open workshops and shops, great racket but nowhere any quarreling. We visited a theater, on every floor a separate show by comedians.[46] Public always appreciative, very entertained, the most diverse people with small children. Really filthy everywhere. Inside and outside in the terrific bustle, quite happy faces. Even those reduced to workhorses never give the impression of conscious misery. Peculiar herding nation, often a respectable paunch, always sound nerves, often resembling automatons more than humans. Sometimes curiosity with grinning. With European visitors like us, comical recip- rocal staring—Else particularly imposing with seemingly aggressive lorgnette. [p. 14] [p. 14v]
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