3 0 8 D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y N O V E M B E R 1 9 2 2 evening, 2 hour train ride with the professors. Light carriages. Public sits in two long rows along the windows. In Kyoto, magically lit streets, cute little houses. Drive to hotel somewhat higher up.[55] The city below, like a sea of lights. Grand impression. Graceful little people patter about, clip-clop, on the streets. Hotel, a large wooden structure. Communal meal dainty waitresses in small separate room. Japanese modest, fine, altogether very appealing. In the evening, scientific conver- sation. All in all, highly strenuous. 18th. In the morning, car tour around Kyoto. Temple. Great gardens, old palace surrounded by wall and moats, wonderful ancient Japanese architecture (derived from Chinese, lighter, less baroque).[56] On streets the dearest of schoolchildren. From 9 o’clock in the morning until 7 o’clock in the evening, train trip to Tokyo in touring car under cloudless skies. Trip along lakes and sea coves. Over the Fuji- yama mountain pass,[57] snowcapped, gleams far out over the land. Unmatched sunset near [Mt.] Fuji. Magnificent silhouettes of woods and hills. Villages quaint and clean. Nice schools. Country carefully built up. After sunset, journalists in the train. Usual daft questions as always. Arrival in Tokyo! Milling crowds and pho- tographers with flashbulbs. Were completely blinded by countless flashes & mag- nesium ones. Brief respite in lobby in train station hotel.[58] Reception by academy, German, and club deputations.[59] Arrival at hotel, quite exhausted among gigantic flowery wreaths and bouquets. Visits by Berliners[60] and burial alive still to come. 19th. From ½ past 1–4 and 5–7 public lecture in university auditorium in small segments, translated by Ishiwara.[61] The latter in decorative Japanese clothing. Looks like a cross between penitent and priest. 20th. Nagaoka picked us up for the academy dinner in the botanical gardens. The academicians were very cordial. Nagaoka collected us and brought us home. Fol- lowing lecture, an address was delivered to me, for which I gave brief thanks.[62] Supper in the hotel together with Yamamoto[63] and Kaizo employees. Then Japa- nese theater with song and dance.[64] Female roles performed by men. Audience sits on the floor in separate little boxes with bag and baggage & actively partici- pates. Access to stage through parterre, passages of which also belong to the stage. Roles strongly stylized. Chorus of 3 men sing incessantly, similar to priests at mass. Orchestra in a kind of cage backstage. Picturesque staging. Music provides rhythm and emotional expression, comparable to bird chatter, lacking symphonic logic and unity. Actors intent on pathos and pictorial effects. Then, with Inagaki and Yama- moto pair, saunter through shopping street with booths of all sorts of pretty trinkets for children and adults. Bright lighting everywhere, but few people, owing to very cold weather. Large business thoroughfare as good as empty at 10 o’clock. We went into a charming little restaurant and chatted. Then, at home with fruits and cigars touchingly provided by Y. [p. 16v] [p. 17] [p. 17v]
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