D O C . 3 7 9 T R A V E L D I A R Y N O V E M B E R 1 9 2 2 3 0 7 Then, drive to Pfisters’ spacious country house with already praised safe haven.[47] Pleasant tea. Then came a deputation of about 8 Jewish dignitaries with venerable rabbi and very difficult communication.[48] Then, drive with Inagakis through dark alleyways to a wealthy Chinese painter for a Chinese meal in the eve- ning. House dark outside with cold high wall. Inside, festively lit halls around a romantic courtyard furnished with a picturesque pond and garden. The halls adorned with the host’s magnificent authentic Chinese pictures and with lovingly collected old pieces of art. Before the meal, the entire dinner party including the host, us, Inagakis, Pfisters, a German-speaking Chinese, a couple related to the host with a trusting, pretty little daughter, about 10 years old, most sweetly reciting in German and Chinese, the rector of Shanghai University and a few teachers from this institution.[49] Endless, extremely fine fare, inconceivable to a European, downright sinful indulgence with schmaltzy speeches translated this way and that by Inagaki, one of them by me.[50] The host had an uncommonly fine face, similar to Haldane.[51] On the wall hung a wonderful lapidary self-portrait of him. The mother of the little reciting daughter played hostess and entertained quite amus- ingly and ably in German. At ½ past 9 departure with the Inagakis to the Japanese Club, where we were greeted by about a hundred mostly young Japanese in a pleas- antly informal, modest and cheerful way.[52] Same casual welcome and response, translated by Inagaki. Then return to the ship. There, a visit by an interesting and sympathetic English engineer. Finally, bed. Today after breakfast, trip by car to interesting temple with many courtyards and with a gorgeous Chinese tower, presently being used as barracks. Next door, a highly enjoyable village, entirely Chinese with very narrow alleyways and little houses opening toward the front, small shops or workshops everywhere. Recipro- cal staring even more impressive than in the city. Children teeter between curiosity and fear. Almost throughout, happy impression apart from filth and stench I shall remember it often and with pleasure. We had a close look at the temple. The neigh- boring people seem to be indifferent toward its beauty. Architecture and interior decor (larger than life-sized Buddhas and other figures) work strangely together to form a great artistic total impression. Lofty Buddhist thought amidst baroquelike figures of abstruse superstition (half symbolic). Afternoon, 3 o’clock departure. 16th and 17th. Passage through Japanese straits with countless green islets. Delightful, ever-changing fjord landscapes. 17th afternoon, arrival in Kobe. Wel- comed by Nagaoka, Ishiwara, Kuwaki, Mr. Nagaoka with dainty wife, German consul and German Club, Zionists.[53] Great hubbub. Masses of journalists on board the ship. Half-hour interview in the salon. Landing with great participation by the crowd. Brief nap in the hotel next to the wharf.[54] under large [. . .] In the [p. 15] [p. 15v] [p. 16]
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