4 5 6 D O C . 4 5 5 T R A V E L D I A R Y
comedy. In return for that, there’ll then be a very nice long trip homeward. I can
scarcely imagine a regular, quiet life anymore; that’s how much hustle and bustle
lies behind me. How our paper heroes will enjoy having talked the man-on-the-
street into
Hindenburg![86]
It was embarrassing for the German envoy in Montevi-
deo; and the Uruguayans were poking fun at the Germans: The nation that had its
reason beaten out of it with a stick.
4. Arrival in Rio at sunset and in splendid weather. Fantastically shaped granite-
rock islands in foreground. Humidity lends a mysterious effect. Ship’s doctor tells
of two experiences with telepathy. (He dreamed of being called for by a country
farmer about a growth in the armpit of a 17-year old daughter, that had to be
drained. The next day, precisely that really happened.) He tells about two other cas-
es that supposedly happened to him. Educated and sensible man. Also shows me a
note about Parisian experiments on bacteriophages, which I definitely consider
falsely
interpreted.[87]
Picked up by hotel personnel in harbor and awaited by professors and Jews on
the
quay.[88]
They all give the impression of being tropically softened. The Europe-
an needs a greater metabolic stimulus than this forever humid warm atmosphere of-
fers. What good is natural beauty and wealth in this regard? I think that the life of
a European slave laborer is still richer, above all, less dreamy and hazy. Adaptation
probably only possible at the price of alertness.
5. Walk in the city with Kohn. A get-up-and-go type. Noontime with his wife
and her lady companion at the
hotel.[89]
The women, nice and airy. In the afternoon,
visit & invitation from some German businessmen. Next, with professors to “Sug-
arloaf.” Dizzying trip above wild forest by cable car. At the top, splendid interplay
between fog and sun. In the evening, welcome by Jewish associations. Then noc-
turnal drive with the very likable, intelligent, and fine Rabbi
Raffalovich.[90]
6. Walk with Silvamello in upper part of the city. Clever, refined person, who in-
troduced me to the little intrigues of the faculty. Language has greater pull here than
observation. At midday, in better harbor pub. Spicy fish
meal.[91]
In the afternoon,
visiting the president, education minister, mayor. Around ½ past 4 o’clock first lec-
ture in Engineers’ Club in overcrowded hall with street noises through the open
windows. For acoustic reasons alone, communication impossible. Little scientific
sense.[92]
Here I’m some kind of white elephant to the others, they are monkeys to
me. In the evening alone in the hotel in my room naked I enjoy the view onto the
bay with countless green, partly bare rock islands in the moonlight.
7) Visit to the natural history museum; animals and anthropology the main sub-
ject. Beauty of the spinal column of a snake as a design. Culture of the Indians,
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